Linseed Oil Paint is a traditional paint that contains Linseed Oil as its main resin(binder) mixed with powdered pigments. Linseed Oil is made from the dried, ripened seeds of the flax plant.

No. These two paints are very different. Modern oil paint is synthetic alkyd resin, a complex oil-modified polyester developed in the 1920s. Alkyd-based enamel paints were once one of the most important types of surface coating until their high VOC content prompted tighter governmental regulation. Linseed oil paint is a much simpler formula consisting of a natural drying oil and powdered pigments.

Linseed oil paint provides a unique and rewarding painting experience. It doesn't have a strong, noxious smell, and is environmentally friendly. It's a one pot product so it doesn’t need primers or different products for different applications. It outlasts other coating systems and doesn’t peel, flake or blister making it an economical coating.

Nearly everything and anything. Wood, stone, plaster, metal, plastic, and glass. Linseed oil has small molecules, meaning it adheres to most clean and dry surfaces. It works best on un-coated substrates. Linseed paint will adhere to existing paint, but it will only perform as well as the paint underneath it. Avoid painting on silicone caulking or double glazed window seals. Linseed oil will eat away at the seals, often voiding warranties.

Yes, our paint will adhere to epoxy. Like in other epoxy painting process', clean the epoxy of amine blush and sand the epoxy prior to coating to provide a good mechanical bond.

Wash the surfaces and give ample time to dry. Make sure the surface is dust free. Older, thirsty and raw wood should be primed with purified linseed oil or a coat of oil thinned paint. Metals don't need these thin primer coats.

It's best to remove all of the existing paint, but if that is not possible, sand the surface lightly and use undiluted linseed oil paint.

On exterior surfaces exposed to natural UV light our paint will dry in 24 hours.

Ideal conditions for painting are warm, low humidity days followed by another 24 hours of similar
weather. Good cure weather is just as important as good painting weather. Low temperatures and high humidity are a bad combination.

There’s no need to clean your brushes between coats. Suspend them in a container of Purified
Linseed Oil. They will keep this way in between infrequent paint projects as well.
Linseed oil soap or dish soap will clean Linseed Oil Paint off of most surfaces.

The natural aging process of Linseed Oil Paint involves the paint taking on a matte look over time with exposure to sunlight and the natural oxidation of linseed oil. The speed in which this aging takes place is dependent on climate region, weather conditions and sun exposure. The substrate is still protected by the paint but the coating will continue to dry out over time. This aging can be slowed by cleaning the surface, applying Purified Linseed Oil to the paint and wiping off the excess after 30 minutes. Oiling the paint adds more natural binder to the paint, once again holding the pigment in place.
This maintenance oiling is usually reserved for darker colors. For some people, the whiter shades tend to appear too yellow with oiling so recoating is the best option.

Coverage: 170 - 250 Sq. Ft. Per Quart/ 3-4 mils wet film thickness. Depending on surface texture and porosity. A little goes a long way.

Linseed oil paint will keep indefinitely. Keep the can tightly sealed. If most of the paint is used, the top layer can skin over but this is easily scraped off. Some prefer to store their can upside down but only do this is you know you have a perfect seal on your can.